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Real questions and real answers from Chief Construction Agent, lightly edited for length and privacy.

Question 01

I need a full construction schedule from start to finish for a 3,800 SF restaurant renovation.

Assumptions: Renovation (remodel of an existing building), 3,800 SF restaurant with a full commercial kitchen, Florida, open-shop labor. I assumed a GC is on board during design, and that the roof and storefront are not being replaced. If they are, see the long-lead notes. Design and permit durations are judgment, so confirm them with your architect and local jurisdiction.

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Phase	Activity	Duration	Starts after / overlaps
Precon	Architect test fit, programming, kitchen equipment and hood layout locked	4 wk	Start (Wk 0)
Precon	Design development and construction documents, with GC pricing checks at milestones	12 wk (confirm)	Overlaps test fit; Wk 4–16
Precon	Permitting: building, plus health, fire, and grease/utility reviews	16–26 wk (4–6 mo, confirm locally)	Submit Wk 16; through ~Wk 38
Precon	GC award to mobilization (~42 days in our data)	6 wk	Overlaps end of permitting; Wk 32–38
Precon	Submittals (~8 days median review, plus sub prep)	8–10 wk	Wk 20–30, during permit review
Procurement	HVAC/RTUs, 10 wk after approval	10 wk	After submittal approval
Procurement	Electrical gear, 8 wk	8 wk	After submittal approval
Procurement	Kitchen equipment, 6 wk (likely 5–12); hood lead time not in our data, so confirm it	6–12 wk	After submittal approval
Procurement	Plumbing fixtures 8 wk, fire alarm/sprinkler 8 wk, doors/hardware 7 wk, casework 9 wk, lighting 6 wk, finishes 6 wk	6–9 wk	After submittal approval
Procurement	Long-lead if in scope: roofing ~26 wk, storefront ~20 wk	20–26 wk	Order immediately after approval
Construction	Mobilize, survey above-ceiling and below-slab, selective demo	3 wk	Wk 38
Construction	Slab cutting, underslab plumbing, grease interceptor, underslab inspection	3 wk	After demo
Construction	Electrical service/panel upgrade, roof curbs and hood penetrations	3 wk	Overlaps underslab
Construction	MEP rough-in (above ceiling, walls, kitchen)	6 wk	Overlaps underslab, Wk 43–49
Construction	Rough-in inspections	1 wk	After rough-in
Construction	Framing, drywall, ceilings	5 wk	After rough inspections
Construction	Hood, exhaust, fire suppression, make-up air	3 wk	Overlaps drywall
Construction	Finishes: flooring, tile, paint, millwork	6 wk	After drywall
Construction	MEP trim, kitchen equipment set, startup	4 wk	Overlaps finishes
Construction	Exterior: paving, striping, landscape, signage	3 wk	Parallel, late
Construction	Pre-inspection, punch, final inspections	2 wk	End of construction
Closeout	Fire/health finals, CO, TAB	2 wk	Overlaps punch
Closeout	O&M manuals, as-builts, warranties	4 wk	After CO
Closeout	Financial closeout (~90 days after substantial completion in our data)	~13 wk	After CO

Total: about 64 weeks (roughly 15 months, with a plausible range of 13–17) from design start to opening. Construction alone is about 26 weeks (6 months). That's consistent with restaurant jobs in our data (7 months median, likely 6–8), and longer than the 3-month all-types renovation median because of the full kitchen.

Critical path: design, then permit, then demo discovery, then MEP rough-in, then hood/inspections, then equipment startup and CO.

On similar projects in our data, restaurants had the most RFIs per dollar of any type (median ~28 per $1M), and about 30% were existing conditions found in second-generation spaces.

Power/panel capacity was the most-cited RFI topic, so survey it before pricing.
About 28% of graded inspections on restaurant work failed or were partial, so pre-inspect a day ahead.
Design and permitting can run as long as construction, so a delayed permit moves your opening date month for month.

It followed up: Is the space currently a restaurant (hood, grease interceptor, and power already in place), or a vanilla shell or non-restaurant use? What's your target opening date, and is financing in place?

Question 02

My contractor is over budget and we need to cut some costs. Right now my budget is $1.2M and they are at $2.0M. Where could I save money to get closer to the $1.2M?

The gap is $800K, which is 67% over your $1.2M budget (40% of their $2.0M price). Value engineering (VE) alone typically recovers only about 5–8%, or roughly $100K–$160K on $2.0M. Closing this gap will take scope cuts, which means redesign, re-permit, and time. Start by asking your architect and GC together: "What changes can we make to reduce cost without redesign or delay?"

Levers, no-redesign/no-delay first (sizing is my industry judgment, not your project's data):

Owner-direct equipment/FF&E: buying directly can trim markup and fees, about $40K–$80K.
Finishes and specs: flooring, ceilings, fixtures, casework, and door hardware. About $40K–$80K.
MEP systems and equipment (usually 30–40% of cost, so $600K–$800K here): alternate equipment, simpler distribution, and fixture counts. A 10–15% trim is about $60K–$120K.
GC fee and general conditions: negotiate the fee and trim staffing or duration, about $10K–$30K.
Allowances and contingency: make sure allowances are realistic and not padded. Don't strip your owner contingency to make the number work.
Add alternates and phasing: move nice-to-haves into later phases or alternates. This can save real money but may touch permitted drawings.
Scope or size cuts: this is the only lever that gets you near $800K. It brings redesign, re-permit, and delay.

Quick checks:

Get a trade-by-trade breakdown.
Find out how much contingency and how many allowances are carried.
Find out the GC % and whether $2.0M is a guaranteed maximum price, a bid, or an estimate.
Ask whether the budget was ever checked against the design as it developed.

Rebidding rarely fixes this, because GCs in the same area draw from the same sub base. A much lower number from someone new usually means missing scope that returns as change orders.

Caveat: any VE after permit changes the permitted drawings. That can mean a permit revision, a delayed start, and held inspections. Net every saving against your monthly carrying cost and lost revenue. Decide before resubmittal.

It followed up: What type of project is this, and has it been permitted yet? Is the $2.0M a bid or a guaranteed maximum price?

Question 03

What type of contract should I use for my office renovation?

For an office renovation, owners usually choose between three setups, and each has trade-offs:

Stipulated sum (lump sum, AIA A101/A201): Best when drawings are complete and the scope is tight. The price is fixed, but gaps, conflicts, and hidden conditions usually become change orders you pay for. Renovations hide a lot behind walls and ceilings.
Guaranteed maximum price with a GC brought on during design (AIA A102): A good fit when the scope isn't fully defined or existing conditions are uncertain. Fixed general conditions and fee, reimbursable sub costs, and a not-to-exceed cap. The GC prices choices as design progresses. A guaranteed maximum price covers only what's in the contract documents, not work that's merely inferred, unforeseen conditions, or added scope.
Cost-plus without a cap: Most flexible, but the owner carries the most price risk. I'd only use it with strong oversight.

On projects in our data, allowances drove about 70% of change-event dollars on office jobs, so whichever form you pick, define finish allowances clearly and carry 3–5% contingency for an existing building.

This is general information, not legal advice. Have a construction attorney review the contract before you sign.

What I'd check next: Ask your architect how complete the drawings will be at pricing, and whether a GC can do a constructability review before you commit to a form.

It followed up: How defined is your scope today: full design, or still working from a test fit? Is the building occupied during the work, and do you have a target move-in date?
Questions you should be asking next: "What does this contract say about unforeseen conditions?" and "Who owns the contingency and any unspent savings?"

More examples. Tap a question to see the answer.

Question 04

What should a 10,000 SF office build-out cost in Florida right now?

Scope: build-out/TI (interior of a shell or second-generation space), 10,000 SF office.

Estimated cost: about $1.67M, most likely $1.41M–$2.03M (median $167/SF, likely band $141–$203/SF). That's based on 32 Florida office build-outs in our data, with GC fee and general conditions around 13% inside those numbers.

Moves it up: a lot of private offices or conference rooms, high-end finishes, a server room, extra low-voltage and AV, and dense power or HVAC zoning.
Moves it down: open plan, reused ceiling and MEP, and a standard finish package.

Land, design fees, FF&E, and financing are extra.

On similar projects in our data, undefined finish allowances drove about 70% of change-event dollars on office jobs, so define finishes before pricing.

It followed up: Is this a vanilla shell or a second-generation space with existing ductwork and ceilings? What's the finish level: basic, mid, or high-end?

Question 05

I just bought land and want to build. What approvals do I need, and how long will it take?

Congratulations on the land. Approvals run in a set order, and your design team runs most of it. Your jurisdiction sets the details, so confirm each step with it:

Feasibility check: confirm zoning allows your use and size, and that water, sewer, and flood zone work for the site.
Zoning review / site plan approval: the local government approves your layout (parking, access, landscaping, setbacks). It often starts with a pre-application meeting, and hearings or variances add time.
Stormwater (Environmental Resource Permit): your regional water management district approves how rain is held and drained. It can often run alongside site plan review.
State road permit: only if you touch a state road with a driveway or drainage connection.
Utilities, fire, health: water/sewer connections, fire flow, and any health approvals, plus connection or impact fees.
Building permit: the building department reviews the drawings against code, then comments and resubmittals follow until approved.
Inspections, then certificate of occupancy (CO): you can't legally open without the CO.

Timing: permitting alone often takes 4 to 6 months, depending on the jurisdiction. Design takes real time too, and design plus permitting can run as long as construction. I don't know your jurisdiction's current review times; ask them directly, and have your architect produce a written approvals schedule.

What I'd check next: before spending design money, look for deal-killers: zoning, utility capacity, easements and recorded restrictions, geotech/environmental, access, and flood zone.

Questions you should be asking next: Who's on my team? (An architect should drive this early phase, and bringing a GC in early helps with sequencing and pricing.) What am I planning to build, and is my financing in place?

Question 06

How long will a permit take?

Permitting alone often takes 4 to 6 months, depending on the jurisdiction. That's not from our project data, and it varies a lot, so confirm the timeline with your local jurisdiction.

The biggest swing factors are whether you need site plan approval or a hearing, stormwater (Environmental Resource Permit) and utility or fire reviews, and how many comment rounds the building department issues. Incomplete drawings, slow responses to comments, and late value engineering changes after submittal are what stretch it most. Design and permitting can take as long as construction itself, so plan occupancy around both.

What I'd check next: ask your architect for a written approvals schedule that lists every agency, not just the building department, and bring a GC in early to help sequence it.

It followed up: What type of project is this, and how big? Are you at the land, design, or permitting stage?
Questions you should be asking next: "Which agencies besides the building department need to approve this?" and "Can any reviews run at the same time?"

Question 07

I got my contractor's bid. What questions should I ask before I sign?

Here's the list I'd work through before signing. This is general information, not legal advice. Have a construction attorney review the contract before you sign.

1. What the price covers

Is this a guaranteed maximum price, a lump sum, or an estimate? Which drawing set and date is it based on?
Can I see a trade-by-trade breakdown? Which trades were actually bid, and which are the GC's own numbers?
What are the exclusions, clarifications, and assumptions? Each one is a possible change order.
What allowances are carried, and are they realistic? Allowances and "TBD" scope drive far more change dollars than field surprises.
How much contingency is in the number, and who controls it?

2. Fee and general conditions

What's the GC fee as a percentage, and what's in general conditions? Are both fixed?
Are subcontractor costs reimbursable, with savings returned to me?
What's billable beyond cost (supervision, equipment, insurance, bonds)?

3. Schedule

What's the start date, the substantial completion date, and the long-lead items (roofing, storefront, HVAC and electrical gear)?
Is permitting time included or excluded? Who pulls the permit?
What are the delay damages or schedule remedies, if any?

4. Contract terms

Which form is it (AIA or custom)? What are the change order, notice-and-cure, and termination provisions?
How are payment, retainage, and lien waivers handled?
Are bonds required? What are the insurance and warranty terms?

5. Your side of the table

Does the number match the budget? If not, ask the architect and GC together: "What changes can we make to reduce cost without redesign or delay?"
Have you locked finishes, equipment, and owner-direct purchases? On some projects, owners have been responsible for over 50% of the changes.

On similar projects in our data, design gaps were the largest source of RFIs (37%), and about 2 of 3 RFIs were answered late. Ask who handles drawing gaps under this contract, and how fast the design team responds.

Questions you should be asking next: Is this bid based on complete, permit-ready drawings? Does my financing line up with this number and schedule?
It followed up: Which delivery method is this (guaranteed maximum price, lump sum, cost-plus), and has your architect reviewed the bid against the drawings?

Question 08

My contractor offered a guaranteed maximum price. Does that mean my price can't go up?

No, not entirely. A guaranteed maximum price caps what you pay for the scope shown in the contract documents. It doesn't cap your total cost. Increases can still come from work only "inferred" from the drawings, unforeseen conditions, owner-added scope, and delays outside the GC's control.

Contract language decides who pays for each of these, so complete drawings and a clearly written scope make the guaranteed maximum price worth much more. Also confirm what's inside the number: contingency and allowances, who controls them, whether savings come back to you, and whether general conditions and fee are fixed. Ask for an exclusions and clarifications list in writing before you sign.

What I'd check next: have a construction attorney review the guaranteed maximum price amendment or contract before signing. This is general information, not legal advice.

It followed up: Which drawing set is the guaranteed maximum price based on, and is it complete or still in progress? Does the proposal list allowances, exclusions, and an owner contingency, or just one number?
Questions you should be asking next: "What isn't included in this guaranteed maximum price?" and "How are unused contingency and savings handled?"

Question 09

As the owner, do I need to collect lien releases from subcontractors?

Yes. As the owner, you should collect lien waivers/releases with every payment, and not only from your GC. In Florida, unpaid subs and suppliers can generally pursue a lien claim against the property even if you've paid the GC in full. Your protection comes from getting paid-to-date waivers from the GC and from each sub and supplier who has served a Notice to Owner, before you release each payment. Final payment should be tied to a final release from the GC and from every sub and supplier on the job.

What I'd check next: have your construction attorney confirm the current statutory waiver forms and timing, because Florida has prescribed language. Also confirm what your contract requires, including sworn statements, a sub/supplier list, and whether your lender or title company has its own draw requirements. Not legal advice.

Withholding payment or terminating without verifying who's been paid is where owners get stuck paying twice.

It followed up: Does your contract require waivers with each pay application, and has your GC been providing them? Have you received any Notices to Owner yet?
Questions you should be asking next: "What sub and supplier list should I verify against?" and "Can my title company or lender handle waiver tracking at each draw?"

Question 10

When should I bring a contractor onto my project?

Bring the GC (general contractor) on during design, not after. The best time is right after you've picked your architect and have a first test fit or concept, before drawings are far along. The architect can draw everything you want but can only estimate its cost. A builder with current market pricing can put real numbers on choices as they're made, so design and budget move together instead of colliding on bid day.

The alternative is bidding finished drawings to 4 or 5 GCs. If the numbers come back over budget, value engineering with the low bidder can stall permitting and push your opening date. Switching GCs rarely fixes it, since local GCs draw from the same sub base. Early involvement also helps with long-lead items and with sequencing permits.

To stay balanced: other delivery methods (design-bid-build, design-build, CM at risk) each have trade-offs in cost control, design control, and risk, so talk them through with your architect and an attorney before you commit. A pre-construction agreement with fixed general conditions and fee, reimbursable sub costs, and a guaranteed maximum price cap is one structure worth understanding. This is general guidance, not legal advice.

It followed up: What stage are you at right now: land, design, or permitting? Do you have an architect selected yet?
Questions you should be asking next: "What cost checks will we do at each design stage, and who runs them?" and "How do I compare early-involvement contract structures without steering to one builder?"

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Disclaimer

Chief Construction Agent offers advice based on real commercial project data and Florida law. It answers specific questions. It does not review your full project, assess its overall risk, or replace your architect, engineer, attorney, or lender. Nothing here is legal, engineering, financial, or design advice, and no professional relationship is formed by using this service. Codes, permitting, and costs vary by location, so guidance outside Florida may not apply. Cost and schedule figures are typical ranges, not quotes or guarantees, and you are responsible for verifying them with licensed professionals before acting. This service is independent and never recommends or steers work to any contractor.